27 April 2010 - "Ukrainian" dream
We are leaving Ukraine soon. We have spent 14 days here so far. While we were crossing the border in Medyka our heads were full of stories about threads and dangers waiting for us. Fortunately they appeared to be myths for us. Ukraine is a country full shocking imbalance. Cities are usually gray, dilapidated, and cold. Villages are quite the opposite: pretty, colorful and surrounded by green fields. Yesterday, on our way to Kharkiv we pitched a tent in a woodland in a tiny village. Along the only unsurfaced road there were small wooden houses spreading. The village probably lacked the sewage system as all households did have a privy at their backs. At dusk all villagers activities died down. We had a feeling that we were spending a night in a Skansen museum, which rhythm is ruled by nature.
We hitch-hiked Ukraine from Crimea all the way up to the Russian border. Everywhere we stepped in we met very open and friendly people. Many times we benefited from the help they offered to us and keyword “Poland” or “Poles” was breaking all limits and barriers. In places we were people were gathering and joining the discussion about accommodation or direction we were looking for. They were often asking why we wanted to see their county since our own is so beautiful. They could not believe that they have something that can attract foreigners’ attention. We met Sergiej, who sit out by the Black See and composed songs about love to his dead wife. We met Miroslava with her husband who could not say good bye to us since they learned we are from Poznan – as their cousin (they even shared her address with us hoping we might know her).
But we also saw a great poverty. Streets are dirty, some squares in towns have rusty army tanks or planes. Lenin is still “alive” as his monuments were in almost all cities we were in. Maybe that is why having the above as the background there is a huge contrast coming from people who wear gaudy brand-name clothes, drive cars after tuning and seem to be tied up to their gloomy mobile phones. Maybe that is how mini American dream comes true?
17 April 2010 – „where can people feel so good as here? Only in Lvov!”
Lvov is an unusual city. It is full of streets covered with paving stones, nice back streets, colorful tenements. The town is a place where two different words meet together: Latin and Orthodox, Western and Orient. It lies exactly half way between Baltic and Black Sea. The town was built by Russians, Poles, Armenians, Jews. It is also a place when Zbigniew Herbert, Adam Zagajewski were born. Gabriela Zapolska wrote “Morality of Mrs. Dulska” here. Lvov is full of Poles, the ones who live here and ones who are visiting this beautiful place. That is why it is really easy to communicate here in Polish.
We were really lucky – thanks to Basia – on Friday we were accompanied by Mrs. Alina who is a professional tour guide and was born in Lvov. She spent entire day with us and showed us very many interesting places, opened our eyes on lots of local issues and definitely increased our historical and cultural knowledge. It is truly hard to list all places we saw. However we were deeply impressed by Armenian Cathedral, Lvov Opera House and Lyczakow Cemetery.
Another great thing happened again – thanks to Mrs. Alina we were able to enter the Opera House during preparations to the evening show.
We spent a few hours on Lyczakow Cemetery where lots of Polish and Ukrainian prominent and worthy people of culture, science and politics are buried. We saw a great number of exceptional and monumental graves. The oldest grave comes from 1786. Our guide attracted our attention to special symbolism for some of them, for example angels holding the figure of the person at rest are called the geniuses of death - they are angels who accompany the dead during his last march. Often one of them carries a lachrymal vase – a vessel where human tears are being collected. Beside rich symbolism tombs have there are often epitaphs written out on them.
Ukrainian cuisine (at least in Lvov) is quite similar to the Polish one. Local specialties are pielmieny – a kind of dumplings – and Ukrainian borsch. By the way – we just have had it twice and every time it had a different but amazing taste. Pirozki are also one of dishes that are a must here in Ukraine. Our hosts – Mrs. Natalia and Mrs. Irena – are Ukrainian and treat us with self made delicious dishes. We were amazed by zrazy which are dumplings made of potatoes filled with meat stuffing.
Mrs. Irena’s recipe for „Zrazy”
Boil one kilogram of potatoes, drain and mash all of them. Add two eggs, some salt and pepper. Cool everything down and add some flour in order to have a homogenous substance. Roll the pastry and cut into small pieces and form simple circles with your hands. Add stuffing (meat for example) and stick together. Than just fry using oil.
15 April 2010 - Our first border.
We crossed Polish-Ukrainian border at 11.30 in Medyka. In Przemysl we were told that Ukraine would welcome us with low prices. We hope it is true. So far we spent 2 zlotys on the bus ticket from Przemysl to Medyka. Sounds good indeed. On the Ukrainian side we jumped on “marszrutka” – small local bus – and after two hours we arrived in Lviv. We are now sitting on a bench on the railway station and waiting for Mrs. Natalia who will give us shelter for the next few days.
